At best, we come upon an amazing restaurant that blows our socks off once every five years. Many kudos go to our niece, Randi, who is a huge fan of Austin and visits frequently for the food and music. Lenoir was on her list of “must-go’s” so we looked it up, booked it and showed up.
Lenoir has an a la carte menu which includes a variety of dishes that might be small or sharable, appetizers or entrees. These choices seem varied in source, style, influence and quantity. They seem somewhat quixotic as a whole menu, leaving you guessing as to what you might expect from your meal.The prix-fix we were offered was extremely appealing to both our grandson and me. Barb is no carnivore, certainly no fan of wild boar. After much angst and sacrifice for the gentle leanings of her grandson,Barb decided to go with the 4 course wild boar menu. The establishment kindly included a fish dish, seeing how torn she actually was. It was a very generous and thoughtful courtesy on their part. Greatly appreciated by our party.This is Erica. She is the Sommelier and a very knowledgeable woman who helped us throughout the evening. She created the wine list for the restaurant and explained all of the wines she had chosen to accompany our meal. Her enthusiasm about the wines she offered was absolutely charming. Barb and I shared the wine pairings. Jesse is not yet a wino and was happy to stick with water.This sparkling rose came from Austria. It was a little bit sweet and matched perfectly with the first course.Our meal started with Nilgai Tartare. It was a very large seaweed cracker surrounded with a mushroom conserva, black garlic and lime.It was a beautiful dish loaded with copious umami, and perfectly paired with the Austrian bubbly.This is a small piece of the seaweed covered in the mushrooms. This local Texan rose was crisp, dry and fruity. It came as a total shock to me. I never heard of Texan wine. I’m sure it will be hard to find in Florida or New Jersey.The Rose paired perfectly with this Duck Toast. It was layered with Duck liver mousse, smoked duck ham, grilled duck leg, pickled daikon and carrot. A brilliant creation.This Sardinian red paired wonderfully with all three preparations of Wild Boar. This was a Boar Saddle Roulade, stuffed with shrimp mousse, Fresno chile and popcorn xo. Exquisite. This Boar Shoulder Pave was topped with some fennel salad, and Mexican plum peri peri. There might have been some whipped ricotta on the top.The Fried Quail Cordon Bleuhad radicchio, sunchoke confit, wild boar tasso ham and was covered with black truffle caciotta.I’m guessing that the sauce they poured over the quail was the Black Trufflecaciotta.To be absolutely sure that Barb was pleased with her meal, the chef sent her a fish dish. It was Grilled Kanpachi in a smoked tomato broth with shallot, faro and preserved lime. Since Barb was already very impressed with the boar dishes, all three of us attacked the fish and savored every bite.This dessert wine came from the Loire Valley, a region of France not known for its sweet wines. It was sweet, touched by a bit of “the noble rot”, botrytis.This wonderful dessert of Toasted Grapefruit Cake had grapefruit curd, almond and Moultanzola, a sort of Gorgonzola. It was a generous portion of significant yum. I promised Jesse I would describe the food with the word Umami. Lots of umami. Possibly the “umami-est” food I’ve ever enjoyed.
Lenoir brings back memories of Michel Chabron, a two star Michelin in the Côtes du Rhône that knocked us out 25 years ago. As eye-opening as Locando del Angelo Paracucci in La Spetzia (cinqua terra) thirty years ago. As exciting as Troigros was a lifetime ago.
It’s like your first taste of perfectly sautéed fois gras served with Sauternes or simply Montbasilac. The first time you get Uni and realize how wonderful it is.It’s an August warm peach salad with melted Tellegio and verjus in Martha’s Vineyard.
It’s reminiscent ofMarni Olds,the first approachable sommelier I ever met in Philly.It’s understated elegance.
It’swhere you need to eat when you go to Austin. Get it?
JoshEatsandDrinks 
Excellent review Josh! Love this place!
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Great review Josh! Love this place.
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